Dong Van Ancient town Ha Giang

Tucked deep within the limestone mountains of northern Ha Giang, Dong Van Ancient Town (Phố Cổ Đồng Văn) is a rare glimpse into Vietnam’s highland history — a small, stone-paved town where old Hmong houses meet French colonial charm, and where the mountains themselves seem to whisper stories from another century.

A Living Museum of Highland Culture

Located about 150 kilometers from Ha Giang City, Dong Van sits in a narrow valley surrounded by dramatic karst peaks. The town was established in the late 19th century as a trading hub between Hmong, Tay, and Chinese merchants. Today, it remains the cultural and geographic heart of the Dong Van Karst Plateau Geopark, a UNESCO Global Geopark that celebrates the region’s unique geology and ethnic diversity.

At its center lies Dong Van Ancient Street, a small square lined with 40 or so clay-walled houses, built between the 19th and early 20th centuries. Their yellowed walls, wooden balconies, and tiled roofs reflect a blend of Hmong architecture and French influence — simple, sturdy, and quietly elegant.

A Walk Through Time

Morning in Dong Van begins with the scent of fresh corn pancakes and coffee drifting from small cafés around the old market. By midday, sunlight cuts through the mist, revealing the weathered beauty of the old walls and lanterns that hang over the cobblestones.

The best way to experience Dong Van is simply to walk slowly — wander the narrow lanes, stop at a local tea shop, or climb up to the French Fort (Đồn Cao) for a panoramic view of the valley below.

And when evening falls, the town transforms. Yellow lights glow softly against the clay walls, and travelers gather in small corners for grilled corn, rice wine, or a cup of herbal tea. On weekends, the ancient street comes alive with folk music and street food stalls, creating a warm, local atmosphere—more rustic than touristy, and always genuine.

The Sunday Market—Where Cultures Meet

Every Sunday morning, Dong Van hosts one of the most vibrant highland markets in Vietnam. Ethnic groups from across the plateau—Hmong, Tay, Lo Lo, and Dao—descend from their mountain villages in colorful traditional clothing. They come not only to trade cattle, honey, and herbs, but also to socialize, flirt, and share rice wine with friends they might only see once a week.

The market isn’t a show for tourists—it’s a slice of living culture. Arrive early (around 6 AM) to see the town come alive with colors, chatter, and the smell of breakfast steaming from large pots.

Best Time to Visit Dong Van

  • October–December: Cool weather, clear skies, and buckwheat flowers (tam giác mạch) in full bloom.

  • February–April: Warm spring days and traditional festivals in surrounding Hmong villages.

  • Saturday evening–Sunday: Don’t miss the weekend market and night street.

Where to Stay & Eat

Many travelers choose to stay overnight in or around the ancient town to feel its quiet charm after the day crowds fade.

  • Homestays: Old Hmong-style houses converted into cozy stays—simple comfort with mountain character.

  • Cafés: Try Cà Phê Phố Cổ or Café 27 for local coffee, views, and a relaxed vibe.

  • Food: Local specialties include thắng cố (Hmong-style stew), men men (cornmeal), and grilled pork skewers.

Getting There

From Ha Giang City, Dong Van is about a 5–6 hour drive along the Ha Giang Loop, passing through Quan Ba, Yen Minh, and Ma Pi Leng Pass. It’s one of the most scenic drives in Vietnam—every curve offering views of deep valleys and limestone peaks.

Dong Van Ancient Town isn’t just a stop on the Ha Giang Loop—it’s a place to feel the rhythm of highland life, to breathe in the stillness of the mountains, and to connect with a culture that has stood resilient for centuries.